It was a day in Athens in this one month of the year of I'm pretty sure 2014. Time had begun to run together and, let's face it, I don't need to know what day it is anymore. I arrived back from an almost intoxicating time (hahahaha) in Crete and I was ready to move on. I saddled up myself and giddy upped off to the train station. Naturally I took a few wrong turns along the way, but this ol' gal don't baulk easily. I stayed true and hitched myself up to the next train to Patra.
The train/bus ride was easily passed listening to stellar musical selections provided to yours truly by the all knowing musical mysticism of Derek Wilson. I had a genuine, heart felt smile on my face and in my heart for the first time in a Greecian while and I was ready for anything.
A selection of everything is what I got. I arrived in Patra to a sever lack of information points, hostels and wifi. After finding myself a "Canadian Burger" (cold burger topped with a fried egg, way too much mayo, potentially a tomato and some bacon/ham...), I resolved to venture forth to the beautiful island of Zakynthos. Yes, you should google it. I'll wait.
Welcome back. While you were googling I discovered the going to Zakynthos in the winter is ill advised. Ya, we are both sad I couldn't go there. No matter I decided to go to Olympia. The birthplace of the Olympics. But again, 'twas not meant to be. The crisis put a serious halt to a lot of transport services and getting to Olympia was going to prove too expensive. The fact that only hotels were open didn't help either.
Plan C! Corfu! What's that you say most helpful ferry information lady? I just missed the ferry? All good. I'll just take the bus to Igoumenitsa and the ferry from there. Back to the bus station and I learn that -- hold onto your hats for this one folks -- there is no bus to Igoumenista.
But! In 8 hours, there is a bus to the island of Corfu. The bus goes from Patra to Igoumenista where it doesn't have an official stop but is forced to stop so that you can get off the bus and by a ferry ticket. Then the bus you were just on, that didn't really stop, gets onto the ferry. It makes the voyage to Corfu with you and then upon arrival to the island takes you to the bus station less than 5 minutes away.
The bus dumped me at the station bleary eyed and barely awake at 5am. Naturally all the hostels on the island were closed. I managed to get directions to a cheap hotel and by 8am was snuggled into bed for a proper rest. The rest as they say is blissful beach and sun history.
I spent three days on the island. I went to a proper pebble beach the first day. On the second day I discovered an adorable inlet with free lounge chairs, a place to swim, and far more privacy than the pebble beach provided. I tanned and read the first half of Wool by Hugh Howey. The third day I tanned and swam and finished the book. I also returned to the mainland and stowed myself away on a ferry to the illustrious and anticipated Italia!
Now folks, Greece was a good time - don't get me wrong. But the transport and one to many run arounds had me looking for a change of scenery. Corfu was that blissful change. After spending time there, I knew I could leave Greece with a cheerful outlook.
'Twas with this sunny disposition that I boarded the Superfast 1 overnight ferry to Bari, Italy. Within 20 minutes of boarding, I was shining even more with a free meal and a free 350ml bottle of white wine in front of me. My good fortune continued when I found a long couch on which to sleep away most of the 10 hour ferry ride. Finding a place to lay down and sleep is often difficult on night ferries and it's a real blessing when you snag a spot.
I arrived in Bari too early to check into my hostel but the lovely hosts at The Little Olive Tree stored my bags and have me a map to explore. This hostel has definitely been one of my favourites. The couple that run it are by far the nicest and most knowledgable hostel owners I have ever met. If you are ever in Bari, The Little Olive Tree is the hostel for you.
The town of Bari itself is quiet normal. There are beautiful churches, cute shops, and a random fort or two. I did three things in the city itself that are of note. First, I visited Saint Nicolas' church. It is huge, gorgeous, and has his remains in the basement. I found it amusing that in Febuary I sat on Sants Claus' lap and in March I visited his tomb. Well not Santa's tomb exactly but the saints for which he was named. Second thing I did was eat Foccacia. Oh did I eat Foccacia. Foccacia is a pizza made with olive oil, salt and tomatoes. It's my new favourite food. Our hosts told us about two tiny little mom and pop restaurants were you can get a whole pizza for $3. It was the only I ate while in Bari. Well Foccocia and gelato. Which brings me to the third thing of note. Gelato. Now we all know how much I love sweets but gelato takes it to a new level. We found a homemade gelato shop. Maria, I tried to heed your warning that gelato is dangerously delicious. I couldn't resist. I think I've had it 3 times in the last 3 days... This trend is dangerous.
The first day in Bari I also met the Canadian girl I'm going to be traveling with for a few days. We spent the better part of two full days together day tripping in the Bari area. We went to Grotte de Castellana. A cave system with fascinating stalactites and stalacmites. I knew I should have paid more attention in science class. It would have come in handy because the tour was conducted only in Italian. Regardless, it was worth the time and money. We capped that day with a stroll through Alberobello. The town has over 1,500 Trulli/Trullo and is a World Heritage Site. A trulli is building with a roof of stone constructed without using any mortar. These buildings have been standing for ages and some are still inhabited. They have a distinct kind of charm that only years of history can bring.
Today Rosemary (my Canadian friend) and I along with a German girl, Lisa, from our hostel went to the town of Matera. Pretty please to take the time to google this place. It is another World Heritage Site I believe. Or it sure should be. It is one of the longest inhabited sites in the world. It is characterised by it's unique architecture of houses carved into cliffs and essentially stacked upon one another. We took a long walk through the city to the ravine and then climbed though caves and hills for a couple hours to a panorama that tops my chart of beautiful views. I'm going to post some pictures but I know they will not do that place justice.
Now Rosemary and I are on a train to Naples. We have decided to travel together for the next few days. I'm contemplating going south to Sicily after Naples but as usual haven't really decided. Rosemary is leaning towards heading north. We shall see what happens. Such is the freedom of long trips with poorly defined timelines.
May my uplifted spirit uplift yours.
Xoxo
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